This story originally appeared in The Daily Camera. Special thanks to Chris Weidner for permissions to repost.
Heather Weidner attempts The Perfect Storm (5.13a). The rope hanging from the top highlights the incredibly steep rock on this portion of Seal Rock’s north face. Photo: Chris Weidner
Within the last 12 months, new regulations have been implemented at popular climbing destinations nationwide, including Yosemite National Park, Rocky Mountain National Park and Nevada’s Red Rock Canyon, with more on the way. And while COVID is the ostensible reason, a recent article on the Access Fund website asserts, “Planning for many of these reservation and permit systems has been in the works for years... it was only a matter of time.”
Of course, these restrictions affect all visitors, of which climbers are just a fraction. But because climber safety depends upon accurate weather forecasts, especially up high, planning climbs requires a certain level of spontaneity – which is precisely what’s being limited.
As climbers, it’s easy to view our glass of future access as half-empty. So now, more than ever, it’s worth remembering our success stories – especially one that’s right in our backyard.
In the mid-1980s, Boulder’s elite began to establish some of North America’s hardest sport routes right here in the Flatirons. And the potential for more seemed limitless.
But soon, a confrontation between a climber and hiker snowballed into a conflict between climbers as a whole and what was then the Department of Recreation (DOR) and Mountain Parks. “The relationship between the land manager and climbers could not have been worse,” said Dave Turner, an attorney and longtime Flatirons champion. “The head of the Department told Chris Archer (a leader in climbing circles) they would allow new bolts in the Flatirons ‘when hell freezes over.’”
An immediate and complete ban on fixed anchors shut down climbing development for the next 15 years. In terms of climbing evolution, the Flatirons became a backwater.
A full decade passed before Access Fund activist, Rico Thompson, organized a cadre of climbers, including representatives from 4 local and national organizations, to challenge the ban. They approached the DOR with three goals: 1) to demonstrate that climbers are not only users of the Flatirons, but caretakers, 2) to improve their relationship with the city, and 3) to secure a pilot program for new routes.
The climbers sponsored trail projects, restoration efforts and educational outreach. By 1998 they formed what became the Flatirons Climbing Council (FCC) and slowly rebuilt a relationship with the city based on trust and teamwork.
“After many meetings – we’re talking 18 months to two years of this – they agreed to a pilot project,” said Turner, who served as FCC President from 2001-2007.
But then came a devastating blow.
The Boulder City Council adopted Mountain Parks from the DOR, which gave the Flatirons a new land manager and completely different staff. “So we had to start all over again,” said Turner. “Square one.”
Eventually, in 2003, Open Space and Mountain Parks (OSMP) signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) with the FCC, to allow for a handful of new routes on two minor formations: Der Zerkle and Red Devil.
“When the bolting ban was lifted, and the first new route went into the Red Devil, it was Archer’s route,” said Turner. “And you know what it’s named? ‘Hell Freezes Over.’”
Vince Nett begins pitch two of The Perfect Storm (5.13a) last September, with Jason Giblin belaying. Thanks to the ongoing cooperation between climbers and the City of Boulder, a limited number of new routes are allowed each year, like this two-pitch sport climb on Seal Rock established by the author in 2019. Photo: Chris Weidner
In the last 18 years roughly 60 high-quality routes have been added to the Flatirons in accordance with the MOU. And the FCC and OSMP partner up regularly, most recently for a volunteer trail project Saturday July 17th to improve the climber access trail on the south side of the Third Flatiron. “The current relationship between OSMP and the climbing community is in a great place,” said Beau Clark, OSMP Trails Volunteer Coordinator. “It’s really highlighted by open dialogue and the willingness to be flexible – two things that serve the long game well.”
Rui Ferreira, President of the Flatirons Climbing Council (FCC), on his new Seal Rock route, Nattiq (5.12b), the Inuit word for ‘ringed seal.’ Photo: Chris Weidner
In addition to trail projects, climbers and OSMP collaborate on a successful raptor monitoring program, wag bag dispensers (to minimize human waste), bolt replacement, trash clean-up events and more.
“We have consistently validated our interest in not only advocating for climbing, but also advocating for the well-being of the Flatirons themselves,” said Rui Ferreira, current FCC President.
And that really points to the right way forward, in the Flatirons and everywhere else climbers explore – regardless of new regulations: we must ensure that access and stewardship go hand in hand.
The trail crew from last Saturday’s project on the south side of the Third Flatiron – a collaborative effort between OSMP, the FCC and other volunteers. Photo: Beau Clark
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Want to make a difference? Reach out to the FCC here, and make sure to regularly check their events page for upcoming volunteer days!
For more stewardship volunteer opportunities, see The Access Fund's frequently updated Take Action page.
Contact Chris Weidner at cweidner8@gmail.com
Follow him on Instagram @christopherweidner and Twitter @cweidner8
]]>Gary had become renowned for his encyclopedic knowledge of gear, his love for the highest quality equipment, and his quest for bringing little-known brands and innovative products into Neptune in large part to serve the types of adventures Gary himself was pursuing. He was always on the hunt – often in Europe – looking for cutting edge, alpine-ready designs.
Gary recalls, “I had heard about Hilleberg for years, but they weren’t available in the US at that time. I finally got to see them at the OutDoor show in Friedrichshafen, Germany. I was really impressed by their unique designs, high quality materials and extreme attention to detail. That year (2005) we brought them into Neptune. I believe we were the first store in the US to carry Hilleberg and they quickly became our most important tent brand.”
Hilleberg, a family owned and operated business, was founded by Bo Hilleberg, like Gary himself, a keen adventurer. See what drove Bo Hilleberg to become a tentmaker:
Today, Hilleberg is still the most important tent brand we carry at Neptune. When it comes to checking all the boxes, Hilleberg tents are unparalleled in their versatility, their ease of use, and their roominess and comfort. But it’s their strength, stability, low weight, and durability that make them the best choice for long-term, demanding, all-season use in the harshest conditions.
At Neptune we’re sometimes asked why Hilleberg tents are more expensive than other tents we carry. To simplify it, Hilleberg tents outperform others and last much longer because of the materials they use, and those materials are frankly more expensive. But what that gives you is performance and longevity that is unparalleled.
Let’s just focus on the fabrics since that’s what protects you from the elements. Hilleberg’s signature Kerlon outer fabrics are triple coated on both sides with 100% pure silicone. This imparts a tear strength that is an order of magnitude greater than the more common polyurethane coatings found on less expensive tents. Besides having an insanely high tear strength and puncture resistance, their waterproofness rating (called “hydrostatic head”) is also far better than any other tents on the market. And, all this performance adds no extra weight, as they start with lighter weight base fabrics.
While the outer tent’s fabric keeps the elements out, the inner tent fabrics must serve to keep the occupants as comfortable as possible. Hilleberg inner tent fabrics are very lightweight and both air permeable and highly breathable, so they let moisture vapor escape while keeping actual water drops from penetrating.
Neptune stocks biggest selection of Hilleberg tents in North America. Check out all the models here and come see them pitched in our store in Boulder.
About Gary Neptune and his personal adventures with Hilleberg tents:
Gary Neptune founded Neptune Mountaineering in 1973 in Boulder, Colorado. It became (and still is) one of the most influential and iconic outdoor specialty stores in the US. A voracious adventurer, Gary has climbed Everest, Makalu, Gasherbrum II, Ama Dablam in the Himalayas, Aconcagua in Argentina, and numerous routes in the Rockies of Colorado and the walls of Yosemite, California. He met his wife Bibi at the Everest base camp and the two have skied the Haute Route and have raced in the Vasaloppet in Sweden, the Birkebeiner in Norway, and the Marcialonga in Italy. In 2019, they completed a 10-day crossing of Auyuittuq National Park on Baffin Island, Canada, using, of course, Hilleberg tents.
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We were car camped in a parking lot about a quarter mile from the South Kaibab trailhead, the start of my little adventure. I had planned on a 3:45 a.m. wake up, but woke up around 3:15 am when a Tesla rolled in to the parking lot with chatty head-lamped passengers nervously shining their headlamps all about. They were probably embarking on the same path as me, the Rim to Rim to Rim route through the Grand Canyon. I laid in bed for a moment, but I was awake and ready to get things rolling, so I slipped out of the car. I had placed my breakfast of Vafels (a calorically dense little treat picked up from Neptune Café) and Red Bull in the front seat.
I had signed up for a 50 mile race in May on the Ice Age Trail in Wisconsin, where I am from. I hadn’t raced in over a year because of race postponements and cancellations, and I was looking forward to a hard effort. Unfortunately, the race got postponed to the fall for a second time. I still wanted that hard effort though, so I started scheming ideas and I fell on the Rim to Rim to Rim unsupported FKT attempt.
A FKT, or Fastest Known Time, is essentially a speed record on a notable route and I was doing it unsupported which just means you can’t get any help, pacers, or assistance of any kind during your effort. You can find more about FKT’s and the guidelines Below.
https://fastestknowntime.com/guidelines/
FKT’s have been a great way for runners and athletes to compete outside the normal race confines for the last year and a half and a lot of Fastest Known Times have been set in 2020 and 2021 because of all the race cancellations. They are a great way to push yourself against great athletes in solitude rather than in huge groups of people on a single day.
The current unsupported record for Rim to Rim to Rim is 6 hours and 38 minutes held by Lars Arneson. I hadn’t ever done the route before so didn’t entirely know what I was getting myself into. Beating that time seemed possible, though very difficult, which is exactly what you want out of goal. You want to get taken to the edge and see which side you land on.
I ate my breakfast in the dark at a picnic bench, shivering a bit, partially from the cold and partially from the sweet pungent smell of red bull, and I stared blankly ahead. The caffeine and sugar and b12 and Taurine and whatever else is in a red bull had not kicked in yet and I was still in the head daze you get when waking up super early for a long adventure.
After eating I changed into my running clothes and slipped on my running vest. I had packed the night before, with what I thought would be enough. I had two Katadyn Befree Microfilter 0.5 L water bottles, two Skratch Hydration Energy Mix packets, 6 gels, and a packet of Skratch Energy chews-not a lot but it was light and I thought it could get me through.
I put on my Petzl 500 Lumen Iko Core Lamp and put it on the lowest light setting to conserve the battery. I’d never run the trails I was about to run and I was told there were some steep cliff drop offs, sharp switchbacks, and rutted out stairs so making sure I had plenty of juice in the headlamp for the entire descent seemed like a good idea. I took care of some last minute business ; ) made sure I had everything I needed one last time and then started my walk to the South Kaibab Trailhead. I was fully caffeinated and focused now. The tension felt like before a race, but I was alone, walking through the woods on my way to run across one of the wonders of the world and back again.
I got to the Trailhead and there were a few other groups of runners just about to start. I didn’t feel like rushing so I told them to have fun and watched them slowly descend into the canyon. I took a few deep breaths, stretched some, paced back and forth a bit and when it felt right I started my watch and took off from the South Kaibab Trail Head sign. It was just past 4:30 am.
My friend in Flagstaff, who runs in the Grand Canyon on a regular basis, had given me splits for different checkpoints in the canyon if I wanted to be on pace for the record. I wanted to take the first descent down fairly easy. Starting a run with a steep downhill isn’t regular for a Colorado runner, the opposite in fact, so I didn’t want to get ahead of myself and start out too hot, trashing my quads in the very beginning. He told me I needed to get to the River between 50 minutes and one hour though to be on track.
Adrenaline was in full effect though and I got moving pretty fast at first - too fast. The trail quickly got choppy though, with sharp turns and stairs and deep mule trodden divots. Jostling with the trail squashed that bad idea of going out too fast pretty quickly and I settled in to an even pace that allowed me to navigate and flow down the trail. I was wearing a Patagonia Houdini as it was in the high thirties to start, but I warmed up very quickly and after a few miles stopped to take it off. I could see a train of other runners descending the canyon together in a stream of headlamps just below me and the enormity of the canyon and the effort hit me. It was going to be quite the day.
Switchback after switchback, I made my way down the dark canyon with hints of the Moon’s light and my headlamp pathing the way. I passed the other runners and we exchanged some hoots and hollers. I was now alone with the trail and task ahead. Time passes quickly when you are working hard and I got to the river in a blink of an eye. It had taken me fifty one minutes, on track with expected time.
I made my way across the Black Suspension Bridge, crossing the Colorado River, and then moved on to Phantom Ranch. My next task was to get to the Cottonwood campground (around 15 miles) within two hours. The pastel dawn ate up the dark night and I no longer needed the headlamp so I squished it down, stuffed it in my pack and got moving. The entire section from Phantom Ranch to Cotton Wood is rolling and slightly uphill with about 1k of vert total. I was working kind of hard to keep my pace around 8:30/mile but felt pretty good overall. As you make your way through the canyon next to the flowing creek the walls close up and it doesn’t seem very big or daunting and I just felt like I was out on a nice long run in a desolate canyon.
I made my way to Cottonwood Camp in just under two hours, still on track for what I was hoping to do. There was only one spot to refill water on the trail at Menzanita rest area at the base of the North Rim climb because the North Rim was closed. I had only drank one half liter of water at this point and still had another half-liter left and decided not to fill up till I came back down.
Most people only see the South rim of the grand canyon as it is much more accessible and open year round, but I would argue, from my short stint, that the trails on the north rim are more fun and just as beautiful. Most of the trail is narrow and built into the side of the cliff as it winds up to the rim. The climb was long and hard but I felt like I was managing ok.
I was expecting the top of the rim to be at just over 21 miles and was hoping to get there in two hours and fifteen minutes. I was moving at about 12-13 minute pace. I got past mile twenty one on my watch and could see I wasn’t close to the top; there were many switch backs to go. I wrapped my brain around this little snafu and decide to walk the rest of the climb and use the small break to take care of myself-drink the rest of my water before the descent down and eat a couple gels (I had only eaten two at that point-approximately 200 calories). The north rim is significantly colder. Between the altitude and cold my arms started to numb and I needed the calories to process quickly after the effort coming up the canyon. I finally reached the North Rim where a trail crew greeted me with a bit of surprise (it was only 7 am). I took a quick picture at the North Kaibab Trail Head sign. I had reached the checkpoint in just over 2 hours 30 minutes. I was about 15 minutes behind schedule a this point.
(Me unsuccessfully attempting a selfie getting my time at the North Rim)
I made a conscious decision to run the descent down the north Kaibab in a relaxed manner even though I was behind schedule. It was still relatively early in the run and the 15 minutes could be made up later. The descent down was super fun. The north Kaibab trail isn’t nearly as rutted out as the South Kaibab and I was able to get into a good relaxed flow down. I didn’t have any water bouncing around, the calories and caffeine from the gels I had eaten had kicked in and my arms gained blood flow again. I started to see the other runners that I had passed going down south Kaibab early that morning making their way up. As I passed people, everyone seemed to be in high spirits moving along together and having fun. I found my way back at the Menzanita Rest Area still fifteen minutes behind, but I was feeling good and felt I could make up time on the next section. I stopped and filled up both water bottles and dumped the Skratch packets in too. I ate two more gels (only two left). Some other runners were hanging out and we exchanged pleasantries, but I was trying to move fast. I was more than a little shaky trying to fill up my bottles; I was definitely still low on calories and hydration, which is more apparent when you stop running and try to do something with dexterity.
The eight mile run back to the Colorado River is rolling and while it was slightly uphill on the way out, it is slightly downhill the whole way back! Rolling trails are my strong suit too so this is where I needed to make up time. I started to drop 7 to 8 minute miles no problem and was feeling really good. I was making up time, but I also knew the effort would catch up to me and I would just have to hope for the best the final 6,000 foot climb out of the canyon. I drank the last of my Skratch infused water and ate the last two gels I had left. In hindsight I should have drank more diligently on the way back and then refilled my bottles in the creek (that’s why I brought the Befree filtration bottles) but I got preoccupied trying to make up time. In hindsight I also should have brought more calories-that was just a mistake from hubris trying to make things simple and light.
I reached the river still a little behind schedule but not by too much. If I had a really good final 6 mile climb I could be close to the FKT. As I crossed the bridge and braced myself for the final push I started to feel the early stages of a bonk and bonks come on fast. I was out of water and calories and still had to climb a long ways out.
My legs were the first thing to go. My calves started cramping, then the quads, then pretty much everything. My back started to seize up too. To get the FKT you have to run a good chunk of this last climb and I knew at this point the FKT wasn’t in the cards. My friend in Flagstaff had told me a lot of people have run good times in the Grand Canyon and have been close, but then fall apart in this last section. I was now another victim of the climb up the South Kaibab and I knew it.
It just so happened to be Free National Park Day. The amount of people grew exponentially as I slowly stumbled my way up. I got a lot of looks and more than a few “are you okay?” questions along with “Did you go all the way down to the river?” I mumbled that that I was doing fine and just having some cramping issues and that I was coming from the other rim, not the river, at which they would look at me quizzically trying to figure out what I had just said.
The waves of cramping and nausea only increased though. I was having a hard time walking with all my muscles seizing up and at one point I just laid down next to some rocks at a turn up a switchback. I made sure to acknowledge any hikers inquiring about my health as to keep them from sicking the rangers on me. I was not doing well, but it was just a bad bonk, a place I’ve been a few times before, and I was fine even though it probably looked bad. After about a seven minute rest laying there in the dirt, the cramping subsided and I got myself back up and moving. Luckily the cramping stopped and I was just left with nausea and general fatigue. I could deal with that so slowly started making my way up. The rest of the climb was very slow and seemed to go on forever.
I started the adventure with the intent of doing the whole thing unsupported and though I wasn’t going to come close to the record I wanted to finish what I started, so when people offered me drinks and food the entire way up I had to politely decline. One woman offered me what looked like an entire gallon of tropical juice, which was very kind, but torture in actuality.
I made my way through the throngs of tourists in the last mile of the climb and I finally reached the South Kaibab trail head sign where I had started early that morning. It had taken me just over eight hours. I had about thirty seven great miles of enjoyable running almost entirely by myself through one of the most beautiful places in the world and six agonizing miles stumbling uphill through lots of people.
I started this attempt looking for something that would bring me to the edge so I could see which side I would land on. I landed on the wrong side this day, but had a great time getting there and now I know the trail and know what improvements I can make if (when) I try to take another crack at it. Adventure recreation is all about enjoying the journey, however it goes, and continuously improving that journey through experience and process improvement. Essentially, keep getting after it!
My splits and map got a little wonky in the canyon but here is my Strava map and data for anyone who wants to ever take on this beautiful route as an FKT, in a single day, or over the course of a few days. I would highly recommend it if you can.
https://www.strava.com/activities/5145205853/overview
(Saw this in a shop in Moab on the way to the Grand Canyon: A sign of what was to come)
]]>We sat down with Pam Roberts, a Neptune floor warrior who's been travelling the world to hike, climb, ski, and surf for more than 20 years. She shares her travel tips, gear recommendations, favorite destinations, and more.
Hi Pam, tell us a bit about yourself.
I started working at Neptune’s in 1983 or so. I knew Gary Neptune from climber parties, and because I was an avid skier and traveler, he invited me to come work at the store.
I used to consider myself a “typical Boulder girl”. I rock climb, ice climb, Nordic ski (skate, classic, and XC), backcountry ski (25 years tele, now AT), mountaineer, hike, trek, bike, surf, swim, and travel. Pretty much just love to play outside!
When did you become interested in travel?
In 1977 my father was transferred to Sao Paulo, Brazil, when I was a senior in high school. That move was a life-changing event, as prior to that I didn’t really know much about the “outside world”. From there we started travelling in South America, and I was smitten.
My first “personal trip” was in 1980-81, in which I spent 9 months travelling by myself in Peru and Bolivia.
What countries have you been to?
I’ll try not to leave any out: Mexico, Costa Rica, Cuba, Canada, Nicaragua, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay, Jamaica, Trinidad, Tobago, Spain, Portugal, France, Pakistan, England, Scotland, and United Arab Emirates (well, just the airport in Dubai, but still…). Many of these countries I’ve been to multiple times.
Tell me about one of your favorite trips.
Oh geez….almost an impossible question to answer! Besides Cuba (been 3 times) and Pakistan, just because they are so different, I guess I might have to say walking the Camino de Santiago de Compostela the summer of 2012 is right up there. The short version is that my husband Jack Roberts had died in an ice climbing accident that January. I was already planning on doing the Camino, and he was going to meet me towards the end. So I brought a Nalgene bottle of his ashes, and did the walk myself, and threw his ashes in the sea at Finisterra. It was an amazing experience physically, culturally, and emotionally. It was lots of fun despite long, hard days, and it gave me ample time to reflect on our life together, and what my own life might be moving forward without him.
How do you decide where to travel?
I usually plan my trips around what physical activity I want to do. Climb, trek, surf are usually the 3 driving activities…I guess season plays into that as well, to take advantage of the ideal weather/conditions.
How far in advance do you plan?
Anywhere from less than a month, to a max of 6 months. So much can change in a month’s time, so I prefer not to plan TOO far in advance.
How do you prepare for upcoming trips?
Nowadays I use a combination of guidebooks, internet, and people. I’m a huge fan of The Lonely Planet guidebooks, and never travel without them. I also prepare physically…I feel blessed to live in a place where I can hike trails out my front door, access fantastic climbing areas (or gyms!), get up to altitude, etc. For surf trips, I swim quite a bit…Boulder has a handful of great outdoor pools!
Do you check your luggage or try to stick to carry-ons?
I tend to check gear. It’s really hard nowadays to just have carry on baggage, especially with climbing gear, pocket knives, etc. That being said, I try to keep the weight manageable, since I’m usually alone. I tend to travel for about a month (dog at home prevents longer trips). Currently I’m a fan of a 60-Liter wheelie bag and a 35-44-Liter pack. At many youth hostels and such you can leave gear….so I’ll get to my jumping off place, leave the wheelie behind, and just take what I need in the pack. Walking across Spain I had my pack at 17 lbs total…Again, I try to arrange it so I can carry my gear (say wheelie and daypack) even a few miles by myself if need be.
Do you have any tips for first time international travelers?
Just go! Know that being nervous is part of it. Learn some words in the language. Engage with people, i.e. stay off phones and computers! There is nothing more mind-expanding than travel. Don’t over schedule or over-think. In other words, don’t do the 10-days in Europe visiting 6 different countries!!! I don’t consider that true travel. Pick a place or two, and get to know it and the people.
What is your favorite pack/luggage to travel with?
Currently I like Patagonia Black Hole Bags (either wheelie or carry), and Osprey packs, ranging from 35-44 liters, depending on what I’m doing.
How much do you pack?
I try to pack as light as possible…no one pack over 30lbs. for a long trip with multiple activities. I sort of have my “travel outfit” that can bring me from warm-water surfing to pretty chilly temps. I lay everything out ahead of time, maybe a week before, and add or subtract. I don’t put it in the bag until the last minute.
Any packing/organization tips?
I like to organize, especially in a duffel. I love Sea to Summit stuff bags and compression bags…I can organize my clothing by type in different colored bags (yes, I can be OCD), and know they are in something waterproof. When I’m feeling cheap, I just buy the sliding zipper kind of zip-lock bags in gallon and three-gallon sizes for doing the same thing.
Any absolute must-haves?
A journal, camera, Lonely Planet Guide, pictures of my dog, and my two very small stuffed animals that always go with me…my hedgehog Hertzog, and penguin Maggie.
]]>Nordic backcountry (not to be confused with skate skiing, randonnée, uphill touring, or Alpine Touring) is classic cross-country skiing surrounded by nature, friends, and a peanut butter and jelly sandwich.
Nordic skiing, like all the ski disciplines, possesses its own language, gear, and pleasures. It’s another great way to experience the sunny cold of Colorado’s winter mountains.
Selecting the best “backcountry” cross-country ski is just part of the fun as you build out your quiver.
HERE ARE SOME THINGS TO CONSIDER WHILE SELECTING A SKI:
The skier’s purpose, height, and weight determine the best ski. For variable terrain and steeper hills, metal edges offer stability and gently-carved turning. Remember to account for backpacks--if your pack frequently weighs 20 pounds or more, consider a somewhat longer ski to maintain the glide built into the camber. Most companies provide a size chart with a range of weights accommodated by a particular length of ski.
How wide should my ski be?
Up to 68 mm allows for cross country skiing, classic style or diagonal stride, in groomed tracks as found at Eldora Nordic Center, for example. And these skis can go out of bounds too! They have the firmness from the steel edges to provide controlled turns. These skis are typically longer to allow for speed on the flats and run-out downhills.
Skis wider than 68mm really shouldn’t go to groomed Nordic centers; they break down the beveled edges of the tracks--and THAT infuriates classic skiers. Use the over-68mm skis to tour Brainard Lake or Hidden Valley. Metal-edged Nordic skis over 68mm float better on ungroomed snow, are generally skied in shorter lengths, and give greater turn control in variable snow conditions.
What about camber? (Also known as “Nordic camber” or “double camber”)
Providing a sort of “bow and arrow” spring action, the camber of a ski is tension built into the base of the ski underfoot. This tension creates a low arch under the kick area of a classic cross country ski. The camber holds the ski above the surface as the skier strides forward, then flattens onto the surface to grip the snow for traction during the kick of classic skiing.
The flatter and firmer the surface for skiing, the happier the skier is for a well-cambered ski. If the skier intends to mainly break trail through soft, new snow and try some gentle tele turns while navigating untracked, unpacked, and ungroomed areas, then camber isn’t as critical for gripping the surface.
And the base? Do I want to wax or not?
The bases of most Nordic cross-country skis are made of a hard, clear material (UHMW--Ultra High Molecular Weight polyethylene) that can be either scaled or smooth.
Nordic skis that are scaled underfoot are WAXLESS skis and do not require kick wax to grip the snow. The scale design allows for classic kicking and gliding without waxing. And, for those times when the scales aren’t enough, some waxless skis--like the Fischer OTX--can be fitted with a nifty kicker-skin designed specifically for the ski.
Smooth-based Nordic skis require either kick wax or a kicker-skin for traction. These WAXABLE skis have a “wax pocket” that covers the arch of the camber. The skier crayons and smooths a layer of wax into the wax pocket based upon the temperature and moisture of the snow. The skill and passion of waxers are something to behold; and wax kits with a variety of waxes, scrapers, and cork smoothers are de rigueur for these enthusiasts. As with some waxless skis, many waxable skis come equipped with kicker-skin systems to accommodate a variety of snow conditions and enthusiasms.
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With so many brands and models of packs to choose from, we wanted to break down how to choose a ski/splitboard touring pack that works best for you.
You might be wondering what makes a ski touring pack different than other backpacks anyway. When skiing, you want a pack that is lightweight, durable, and handles movement well. Ski touring packs also have a number of features that will make your day on the snow more efficient.
Straps - A ski-specific pack has straps to carry your skis or board. This is useful for objectives that are too steep to climb while skinning or when finding turns that require an approach without snow.
Some packs even offer multiple carrying options:
Gear storage - Gear loops allow you to bring an ax for snow climbs and mountaineering objectives. They also make it convenient for splitboard riders to stow poles for the descent. Many ski packs also feature an external pocket to store a helmet. Some even have a lined pocket for goggles.
Internal safety pockets - ski touring packs are built with compartments designed specifically for an avalanche probe and shovel. Having an organized, dedicated spot for your avalanche safety gear helps you access it quickly in case of a rescue.
In addition to the features mentioned above, some ski-specific packs also feature an inflatable airbag designed to be deployed in case the wearer is caught in an avalanche. The airbag can help provide flotation to remain above the snow, reducing the risk of becoming buried. If you do get buried, the airbag creates a bigger air pocket for breathing beneath the snow.
***However, it is extremely important to note that wearing an airbag pack is NOT a substitute for avalanche education nor avalanche safety gear (beacon, probe, shovel). Do not let an airbag pack influence your terrain choices or lure you into a false sense of safety. Avoiding avalanche terrain is still the best practice for mitigating risk.***
Avalanche airbags are inflated one of two ways: using compressed air stored in a canister or using an electric fan. There are various pros and cons for each.
Electric Airbags -
Electric airbags used a battery-powered fan to inflate. There are several pros to this technology.
Osprey Soelden Pro 32 Avalanche Airbag Pack
Canister Airbags -
The canister is a cartridge filled with highly pressurized gas, which is used to fill the airbag.
Ortovox Ascent Avabag (multiple sizes)
>>Shop All Avalanche Airbag Packs>>
Think about what you typically bring in your ski pack and how many days you'll be using it for. For day trips, a volume of 25-35 liters is probably sufficient, but if you plan on going on overnight trips, you'll want to go bigger.
As with all packs, you'll want to visit a reputable shop (may we suggest Neptune?!) to get a proper fit. You don't want your pack hitting you in the head on steep ascents or sloshing around on descents.
Some packs, like the Osprey Sopris Pro 30 , even have a women's specific fit.
We sat down with Brian Condon, our Cafe Manager and resident trail runner at Neptune to share training tips, gear recommendations, favorite trails and more.
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We sat down with Brian Condon, our Cafe Manager and resident trail runner at Neptune to share training tips, gear recommendations, favorite trails and more.
Hi Brian, tell us a bit about yourself.
Hi there! I'm Brian, the Cafe Manager here at Neptune. I'm a trail runner, I run for Salomon, and I coach runners as well.
What’s a typical distance you run?
I’d say on average, about 10 miles. On weekends, I like to go for longer runs. 15-25 miles, then there are light days too where I run three or four miles.
Where are your favorite trails?
Doing some volcanoes in Mexico this last year was really amazing. Going up Itza, which was 17,000 feet was really cool.
I’ve run the Western States in California, so running in the Sierras is really fun, and I mean my favorite place to run is right here in my own backyard in Boulder, the Indian Peaks, Rocky Mountain, all those beautiful places.
What are your proudest races?
I’d say Western States is probably my proudest race, just because it’s a hundred-miler, and hundred-milers are a doozy. So, I’ve done that twice. I’ve done Trans Rockies, which is a 6-day stage race. That was really fun. I really enjoyed that. This upcoming year, I’m going to be doing the Ice Age Trail 50, which is in Wisconsin, which is where I’m from. And I’m going back to try to break the record there. It’s kind of like my hometown race, so it has a special place in my heart.
Do you have any advice for someone looking to train for longer distances?
Yeah, always start slow and start with low mileage, and then really focus on gradual progression to build mileage. That’s the best way to avoid injuries, stay consistent over a longer period of time.
What gear would you recommend for someone looking to get into trail running?
Well, it's always helpful to trail running shoes as opposed to road running shoes. There’s a lot of rocks, roots, undulations on trails and having shoes that are built for that rocky terrain is very helpful, first and foremost.
Poles, if you ever get into the higher alpine can be very helpful for the uphills and downhills.
Headlamp for night running.
A pack so you can bring water, food, extra jacket, and for longer days out in the mountains.
Always be ready for the weather. It’s smart to have a watch or map so you know where you’re going. It’s easy to get lost.
How do you fuel up during a run?
Skratch Labs is good. There’s powders, there are goos. The Honey Stinger Waffles are one of my favorites. Just a couple goos per hour or two is usually good, but if you’re doing something longer, you definitely want to have more sustenance to get through the day.
What's your favorite way to fuel up at the Neptune Cafe?
Probably a cortado! Come in to the cafe and say hi!
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Choosing the right length
Ski length is determined according to body weight and height. The table below is only a guide, however – experience, skill, terrain and individual needs can all influence your choice of length.
Body length (cm) Weight (kg) Ski length
150-160 -55 165
160-170 55-65 175
170-180 65-75 185
180-190 75-90 195
190-200 90- 205
Generally speaking, moving through rugged terrain calls for shorter skis than the open mountain plateau. And for beginners, short skis are easier to control. If you’re mainly skiing along tracks, length isn’t the most crucial factor. For good float on deep snow, a slightly wider ski is useful. Lighter skiers might consider a shorter ski; heavier skiers a longer ski. Skiers with loads such as backpacks and sledges might consider a longer ski.
]]>BC skis for long outings and expeditions:
Durable, tough, and semi-narrow skis. Most of these skis fit into groomed tracks but are made to work in the harshest conditions, like when you need a ski to cross Greenland or get to the South Pole. In general, really versatile skis for flat and moderate terrain. They are directional, relatively stiff, has a high camber profile.
WAXLESS BC skis for long outings and expeditions:
Allround BC and Telemark skis:
A bit wider mountain skis. Made to be easier to ski downhill, whilst still preserving the directional walking abilities. These skis are easier ski downhill turns with, more playful and in general have better downhill abilities. Still suitable for longer trips, but will excel in more varied hilly terrain. These skis also have a softer flex and less camber than the narrower skis, mainly to give better downhill capabilities. All of these skis are too wide for groomed tracks, thrive out in the mountain, and are usually used in combination with frequent use of short skins.
Waxless Allround BC skis:
Dog-skis/mountain skis without steel edge:
Skis made specifically for those who own dogs. All these skis are made without steel edges to prevent injuries on the dog’s feet an paws. Not to say that these skis cannot be used by others too, but they are made with dogs in mind. The Breidablikk could very well be a really nice and safe telemark ski, just to mention other users. We have made the Breidablikk as maybe the most versatile dog-friendly ski on the market.
Wide mountain-skis:
Wide skis, often called “hybrid skis” as they are made as wide mountain or BC skis, but is borderline to alpine touring skis. These are all fantastic skis for mountain enthusiasts, telemark skiers or those seeking a lightweight alternative to alpine touring skis for long approaches or expeditions. In general made for use in steeper terrain, deeper snow, and more difficult downhill conditions. These skis have a little-to-no wax pocket, and will usually be used almost exclusively with short skins on.
Playful, wide, lots of sidecuts and solid skis made to stay on top of the snow when it gets deep and for easy turns on hardpack.
**Editor's Note: This article was originally published on TheElevatedAlpine.com by author Corey Aretakis and has been edited slightly for Neptune Mountaineering. You can feel the full article here.
The Elevated Alpine is a community of mountain-minded women focused on elevating women in the outdoors. Follow The Elevated Alpine on Facebook and Instagram for gear reviews, blog articles, and upcoming events.**
First off, hell yes! Backcountry skiing is the best, and by seeking out advice, you’re off to a good start. The goal of this intro guide is to help you navigate getting the gear you need and preparing for your first season out.
Before you think about anything else, the most important thing is to understand risks and risk mitigation in the backcountry. This is absolutely essential. You don’t know what you don’t know. So if you don’t know what to look out for in avy terrain, you need to assume that everything is avy terrain. This includes easy-to-access passes like Berthoud and Loveland - just because they are highly trafficked does not mean they don’t have risk.
Hour-long Avy 101 talks are a great starting point to learn the basics of what you need to learn. Lots of organizations host these throughout the Fall on the front-range. Keep an eye out for Friends of Berthoud Pass, Friends of CAIC, Colorado Mountain School.
Next, you should schedule your AIARE 1, where you’ll actually learn the basics. This will give you a solid foundation to understanding avy terrain and snowpack, as well as how to keep yourself and your partners safe.
If the price is deterring you, there are a number of scholarships out there to help mitigate the cost of an AIARE 1 course. Check out the AIARE website for an up-to-date list: https://avtraining.org/scholarships/
Friends of Berthoud Pass (FOBP) one-day, on-the-snow classes and Colorado Mountain School’s one-day Companion Rescue classes are also a great way to get started, particularly if you’d prefer to get comfortable with your gear and learn some basics before doing AIARE 1. If you go that route, we highly recommend doing one or both of these courses. If you do go out after your one-day course and before your AIARE, be sure to go out with experienced partners who can make informed terrain decisions, and use the opportunity to learn from them along the way. Remember that you are ultimately responsible for your own safety. You should not be going into the backcountry unless you know what you are doing and what you are getting yourself into.
A backcountry-specific setup will go a long way. Go for something that’ll suit a range of conditions, from pow to crud. You’ll need skis, bindings, boots, skins, poles, a beacon, a shovel, and a probe. Here are some high level things to consider. We'll dig into these more in-depth later on in this article.
Skis: look for mid-sized (~105-110mm underfoot) backcountry-specific skis that can handle a variety of conditions. We love DPS Yvettes and Atomic Backlands.
Bindings: backcountry bindings have come a long way in the last few years, and there are lots of great options. Consider your skiing style, your weight, and your preferred tradeoff between performance and weight when deciding between a full tech or a tech/alpine hybrid binding. Some great options are Marker Alpinists (tech) and Marker Kingpins (tech/alpine hybrid).
Boots: backcountry boots are about to be your new best friend. Try on options in a store with good boot fitters, and figure out what works best for your feet. Look for something relatively lightweight, and consider the range of motion and flex. We love Scarpa Gea RS,' Technica Zero-Gs, and Dynafit Hoji Pro Tours.
Skins: We are big fans of Pomoca skins! Trust us….we’ve tested a handful of skins and think these are the best. However, they do come with a best-in-class price tag! Check out Black Diamond skins for more price conscious options.
Poles: Get telescopic poles with powder baskets, like the Black Diamond Traverse Adjustable Ski Poles. Adjustable poles come in handy when you are switching off between skinning (longer pole length) and skiing (shorter pole length).
Safety gear: You absolutely need a beacon, shovel, and probe, and to know how to use them. Consider a three-antenna beacon, a backcountry-specific shovel, and at least a two-meter probe. Avy bags can be a great added safety measure, though they not an absolute essential.
First, think about how you plan on using these skis. For your first backcountry ski, you’re probably looking for a one-ski quiver to use all winter, all conditions. With that in mind, here are some things to look out for:
Waist width: for an every day ski, 100mm underfoot can usually serve as a good one-ski quiver. Depending on how you like to ski, +/- 10mm can still do the job well. Keep in mind that weight can make a huge difference. Since ~80% of your day will be spent skinning, you may choose to err on the lighter side of what you might choose for an everyday resort ski.
Weight: to reiterate, remember, you’ll be spending ~80% of your day going uphill. We recommend looking at skis designed for the backcountry - these tend to be much lighter than resort skis, which we promise you’ll be grateful for. Most manufacturers either make separate backcountry lines or backcountry versions of each ski.
Performance: the tradeoff of weight tends to be performance. Read reviews on the skis you’re looking at, and look specifically for how they handle things like hardpack and crud but also powder. Unlike the resort, it is very common to encounter variable conditions in the backcountry. You’ll want a ski that can handle anything you come across. Skis that are ski-mo oriented are likely to be further on the spectrum of the tradeoff of weight vs. performance; if you’re strictly looking to ski rather than skimo race, stick with skis marketed for backcountry rather than skimo. If you like to nerd out about the technologies, also pay attention to the engineering - ski manufacturers get creative with the materials and composition of lightweight + high performance backcountry skis, which can ultimately have a huge impact on performance.
DPS Yvette Tour: super playful ski with a great weight:performance ratio
Atomic Backlands: these skis come in a Women’s option. We haven’t noticed a huge difference between the construction of these vs the mens, however, you might find a more preferable length or topsheet with the women’s version.
The main considerations here are how you like to ski, how focused you are on a lightweight set-up, and ease of use. Tech binding technology has skyrocketed over the last few years, leaving us with tons of options. They generally fall into 4 categories:
Full tech: Full tech (pin) bindings are the traditional backcountry binding: pin toe, pin heel. Your heel gets locked in with a fork that goes into the heel of your boot, and the toe is secured by two pins on either side of your toes. These will generally ski more rigidly than alpine bindings, but there have been some solid advances here in the last few years. If you’re looking for more of an alpine binding feel, look for bindings with adjustable forward pressure and heel elasticity. Also look out for those that have din options - in this style that’s usually just a different fork in the heel. However it can add some customization to your size and ski style and help make pin bindings ski more safely and comfortably for you.
For many full tech bindings, you can choose to mount them with or without brakes. Leashes can be a great alternative to brakes, so there is less to fumble with at transitions and your setup will be lighter overall.
Note there’s another sub-category under this for skimo/ultralight - you can get super minimal with these if you’re really focused on shedding weight. Just keep in mind, these are more oriented for skimo than everyday backcountry skiing.
Marker Alpinists: Alpinists crush. Resident hucker Sara Robbins recommends these as an everyday binding, which is a great testament. Secure, just the right elasticity, and the ability to swap the heel fork to fit your needs (din of 6, 9, 12), these ski shockingly well for a full tech binding.
Dynafit ST Radicals: Fun fact, Dynafit invented the tech toe (pin) so you know they are going to make a great binding.
Tech toe / alpine heel: Tech toe/alpine heel bindings can be a great middle ground between alpine-like performance and weight. They have a bit more elasticity than a pure tech binding, so they’ll generally feel a bit more secure and absorb more on choppy snow. That said, they’re also generally heavier than pure tech bindings, and can have more to fumble with at transitions. If you like to ski super aggressively or just prefer a more alpine-like feel, these can be a great option.
Marker Kingpin
Tech / alpine transformer: There’s a new category of binding that acts as a pin binding on the uphill while allowing you to go full alpine on the descent by tucking the pins away and engaging a traditional alpine toe. These genuinely ski like a resort binding, and in that regard feel like a dream. That said, they’re heavy and in our experience freeze up and can be difficult to transition. If you’re looking for a rowdy binding that you can huck on or just want a super solid alpine feel, these can be a great option albeit maybe overkill.
There are really only two options here: the Shift and the Marker Duke PT. The Shift is marketed separately by Salomon, Armada, and Atomic, but they are the exact same binding, just with a different logo (so just buy the cheapest option or the brand you like the most). The Shift transforms to engage the component you want for the uphill vs downhill, while with the Duke PT you actually remove the alpine toe piece and toss it in your bag on the way down. We don’t have experience with the Duke PT, but it seems to introduce some classic splitboard binding issues that could impact usability: too many parts to fumble with and fasteners that risk freezing in the cold. The Shifts will be a heavier option, but they do ski like a true resort binding on the downhill.
Frame bindings: Frame bindings are full alpine bindings that sit on a plate that you can detach from the ski to pivot at the toe. Candidly, we’d only recommend frame bindings if you’re lukewarm on getting into backcountry and really just want to dip your toe with a resort set-up before committing. These are heavy, and much less ergonomic while you’re skinning. Even if you’re buying a set-up to use both in-bounds and in the backcountry, something like a Kingpin, Tecton, or Shift will probably fit the bill better all-around.
Trekkers: trekkers can be a great way to test the water using your alpine gear. These attach to your alpine bindings, and operate similarly to a frame binding. They have the same downsides as frame bindings, but can help you to get out and see if the backcountry is for you without needing to buy all new gear.
Boot preferences can be really individual based on the anatomy of your feet. Be sure to try boots on before buying.
When you’re looking at boots, there are a few things to consider:
Fit:
Toe spacing: you should have enough space to wiggle your toes and to not have them hit the front when you walk around. You want some space to avoid jamming your toes and to let your feet to swell while you’re skinning (because that will happen a bit). This likely means they won’t fit as snugly in your toes as your alpine boots. You may also prefer a looser fitting boot in the backcountry since you may be spending a lot of time in them.
Volume: Your feet should feel secure without feeling constricted. You want them to feel connected and in control of your stance while skiing, without jeopardizing your circulation.
Heel hug: when you’re skinning, you want your heel to stay in place in the boot to avoid blisters. Make sure that when you flex and extend your ankles, your heels stay in place. Getting your liner molded can help with this.
Flex: The flex of the boot is how stiff it is in ski mode. Note that backcountry boots tend to be a bit softer than alpine boots and including a walk mode in a boot will naturally compromise the flex rating slightly. Because of this, you may want to consider a higher flex than you normally would for the same feel. Flex ranges from 50-140, though most womens boots are in the range of 90-130. <90 will be a softer boot, 90-105 is moderate, and 110+ is generally high performance. Note that some backcountry boots geared more towards skimo don’t have flex ratings.
Range of motion: Backcountry boots have designated ski and walk modes. Walk mode in backcountry boots will probably make you never want to go back to alpine boots again! Some boots have more range of motion in their walk mode than others. This is measured in degrees - be sure to test this when you try boots on, and think through how comfortable you think they’ll be while skinning.
Binding compatibility: While most backcountry boots are compatible with most backcountry bindings, there are some exceptions. More skimo oriented boots tend to have smaller lips on the toe and heel, which limits their compatibility with bindings with an alpine heel or toe (eg. Kingpins, Tectons, Shifts, or frame bindings). You can usually get an adapter to solve this for the heel (eg to use Kingpins or Tectons), but you can’t do so for the toe (eg to use Shifts). Take this into consideration if you plan on getting one of those bindings or skimo boots.
If you’re looking to test the waters but still plan on skiing mostly at the resort, there are also alpine boots with interchangeable soles to make them compatible with backcountry bindings. These are generally more alpine oriented: heavier, stiffer, less luxurious walk mode, but can be a good option if you’re not looking to dive all-in to backcountry. Keep in mind, they aren’t the easiest to swap out so this might only be a good option if you plan to swap them out every once in a while.
Scarpa GEA RS: high performance women’s boot. Great for both the uphill and downhill.
Tecnica Zero-G (Tour or Scout - don’t be fooled by the “men’s” label): lightweight, high performance, low volume boot. The Scout has a ladies version that lands lower on your calf and has a flex of 115. The Tour only comes in a men’s version, but goes down to small sizes (starting at a 22.0) and is still low volume, great for narrow feet. It rises higher on your calf and has a flex of 130.
Skins are an essential part of your backcountry setup. And most of the time they work great, until they don’t and they no longer want to stick to your skis as you are going up that last final stretch of uphill (ugh!). That is why it is important to buy a good pair of skins or at least understand what it is you are buying. Skins can also be a massive weight saver and ultimately affect your glide and efficiency while skinning.
Now let’s dig into materials but first… a fun fact: Did you know that backcountry skins used to be made from seal skin? Luckily for the seals, they are now made from artificial materials. But there are a few materials to consider when buying skins and you’ll ultimately want to make your decision based on how you plan to use them. Do you plan to go on long tours and be in the backcountry regularly? Well then, choose a skin that is lighter weight and has good glide. If you are new to the sport, a Nylon skin may be a good option based on its price and durability.
Nylon skins are very durable and offer great grip, however, they tend to lack glide and can be on the bulkier/heavier side. The benefit is that they tend to be more affordable than Mohair or Blend skins.
Mohair skins have a good grip and are lightweight. The downside to these skins can sometimes get bogged down by super wet snow (not the best for a PNW snowpack but do well in dryer snow). Great skins for skimo racing and ultralight setups.
Blend skins are both nylon and mohair blended together. You could say they are the Medium Porridge of skins - just right, for just about anyone.
Pomoca (literally any of them) - trust us on this one. We’ve tested so many brands of skins and we keep going back to the Pomocas. We’re big fans of the Climb Pro S-Glide (blend 70% Mohair, 30% Nylon) specifically, but they have an awesome “Find Your Skin” feature on their site that allows you to narrow in on a pair that would work for you. They tend to be on the pricier side, but we believe they are worth it! The only downside to these skins is that the tail clips are plastic, this means that the plastic can become brittle on a cold day and can sometimes break when you are ripping skins. We recommend carrying an extra tail clip in your pack, just in case, because this really isn’t a deal breaker, in our opinion!
Black Diamond Glidelite or Ascensions (blend) - these tend to be a popular skin and friendly to your wallet. Black Diamond offers a variety of options in that Blend category. However, when you are fitting the skins to your skis, the tail and tip attachments can be a pain in the rear. Be prepared for that, or bring them to a local ski shop to have them cut and fit for you.
Poles are pretty straightforward. A few things to consider:
Adjustable poles can come in handy when you are switching off between skinning (longer pole length) and skiing (shorter pole length).
You’ll want powder baskets so they don’t sink when skinning (eg if you’re looking to use telescopic hiking poles, swap out the baskets).
Make sure you think the mechanism that allows you to change the length will be workable with gloves on in the cold (most are, but we have seen some that aren’t).
Black Diamond Traverse
BCA Scepter
Safety equipment is one area to be absolutely sure you’re getting the right gear. There are shortcuts available, but they will compromise your safety and that of your partners. The technology is pretty straightforward, just a few things to look out for.
First: you 100% need a beacon, shovel, and probe, and to know how to use them. If your partner gets caught in an avalanche, it will be your job to rescue them (using this gear).
Beacons are meant to be compatible with one another, so no worries if your friends have a different brand! Not to get too technical, but you should consider buying a beacon that has 3 antennas. The more antennas, the more accurate the signal. The BCA Tracker 2, is an inexpensive and basic beacon that most beginners will be perfectly fine with. If you want something a bit more technical or you decide you want to have a better multi-burial feature you may upgrade your beacon.
Get a metal shovel specifically designated for backcountry skiing, and make sure you know how to quickly put it together. When you are skiing, ensure you have a way to secure it fully inside your bag (e.g. not on the outside or poking out) so that you don’t risk losing it in a fall or an avalanche.
Your probe should be at least 2 meters. 240-300 cm is generally considered a happy medium between weight and length.
Probes are generally either aluminum or carbon. While carbon is lighter, aluminum is easier to push through packed snow (and is generally cheaper).
Avy bags are a great added safety measure. Note that this is not an absolute essential like the items above, but they’re still a great option. Here are a few things to consider:
Capacity: Consider what you’ll be using the backpack for, and think about the extra layers etc. you’ll want to have with you in the backcountry. If you’re only looking to do day trips, a 25-35 L pack can be sufficient. If you’re looking to do both day trips and hut trips, a bigger pack can work for both, so that you don’t need to compromise on safety when you need a bigger pack. Some packs have expansion zippers or modular cubes you can add on, so that you’re not stuck with a bigger pack on days when you don’t need it.
Deployment mechanism:
Canisters: Traditional airbags use compressed air (CO2 or Nitrogen) to deploy. The downsides of this option are that they only allow for one deployment per canister, and are heavier than battery powered options. You also cannot travel internationally with air canisters (in case you’re daydreaming about your next Japow trip). That said, there are tons of options for canister bags out there, making it easier to find one that works for you.
CO2: CO2 airbags are the most common option out there. These are easy to maintain since most ski shops can refill your canister for a small fee. That said, CO2 canisters are heavier and larger than nitrogen.
Nitrogen: Nitrogen canisters are becoming less and less common. They are also more difficult and expensive to replace: they need to be sent back to the manufacturer to be recycled rather than getting filled at a ski shop, so you’ll need to find a shop that offers canister swap-outs. These can cost ~$100. That said, they are lighter and smaller than CO2 canisters.
Battery-powered: Battery-powered bags came onto the market in the last few years, and are a great option. They can be deployed multiple times on a single charge, can be charged easily at home, and are typically lighter and less bulky than traditional canister bags. You can also safely travel on a plane with them. These tend to be more expensive but the trade-off for the cost of canister refills may be worth it.
Ski strap mechanism: These give you the option of strapping your skis to your pack when bootpacking. Bags typically have an a-frame carry or a cross-bag carry. Both have pros and cons, though a-frames are a more popular preference.
Fit: Be sure to try backpacks on before buying. In our experience, a lot of gender-neutral avy bags are sized for men and can be difficult for women. Bring your helmet with you to try them on, to make sure the height doesn’t interfere with it.
Black Diamond Jetforce Tour 26: smaller battery powered pack. Super light, with almost no bulk taken up by the airbag and battery. Smaller fit than other Jetforces, so generally works better for women than other BD Jetforce options we’ve tried. That said, it’s on the smaller side and can sometimes feel too small even for day trips.
Ortovox Tour 32+7: nitrogen canister bag with an expansion zipper. The 32L capacity is perfect for day trips, and the +7 provides enough extra space to work for hut trips. Dedicated avy gear pocket keeps your shovel and probe secure and handy, and leaves plenty of space for extra layers, water, and food.
Scott Patrol E1 30: mid-capacity battery powered pack. Better fit for women than BD Jetforce in our experience, and the 30L size is great for day trips.
Osprey Women’s Sopris Pro 30L: This is new to the scene this year. It is the first women’s specific battery powered airbag we’ve seen! Although there is only one size and our hunch is it's just the S/M size of a unizex bag, while the men’s is the L/XL option. The Osprey Women’s Kresta backcountry bag (non-airbag) is a fan favorite over here so we were so excited when Osprey decided to release an airbag pack option.
So, the outdoors has been your escape for the crazy year that was 2020, and now you're hoping to find ways to continue getting outside during the winter. Awesome! We hope to see you out there! But before you travel into the snowy mountains, you should know how to assess and avoid avalanche terrain.
Anyone who is travelling in snow, whether by foot, snowshoes, skis, snowboards, or snowmobiles needs to understand how to avoid danger. That even includes ice climbers, who can be exposed to snowy slopes above them.
It is also worth noting that relying on the knowledge and decision-making of someone else in your group is not enough. This is a common pitfall, known as "expert halo."
The free avalanche awareness program Know Before You Go offers five simple steps for minimizing risk in the backcountry.
If you're going to be travelling through avalanche terrain, always carry a beacon, probe, and shovel to find a partner and to be found.
Beacon - A beacon, or transceiver, is a device worn on the body that transmits a radio signal used to pinpoint buried victims. All beacons use the same frequency, so you do not need to use the same brand as your companions. The best beacon is the one you know how to use! Check your batteries before each use, keep your beacon away from other electronics to avoid interference, and do a partner check at the trailhead to ensure beacons work in both search and send modes before you head out.
Probe - Once a victim has been located using a beacon, a probe is driven into the snow to determine their precise location and how deep they are buried.
Shovel - You want a backcountry-specific shovel for quickly moving several feet of snow to retrieve a buried victim. Shovels should be stored inside your pack, so as not to become separated from you in case you are caught in an avalanche.
>>Shop All Avalanche Safety Equipment>>
Avalanche safety equipment only works if you know how to use it! Moreover, the goal is to avoid triggering an avalanche altogether. Make sure you have the proper training to identify avalanche terrain, to make smart decisions, and to perform a rescue.
There are lots of options including:
Free Avalanche Awareness Courses – Colorado Mountain School, Know Before You Go, and Friends of Berthoud Pass all offer free avalanche awareness programs. The is a great place to become aware of the hazards of backcountry travel.
AIARE Courses – AIARE courses are offered by a variety of guide services and organizations, whose curriculum meet the standards of the American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education (AIARE). The typically introductory course is AIARE 1, a three-day, 24-hour introductory course to learn the basics of hazard management. Once you have completed AIARE 1, you may decide to continue your education with Avalanche Rescue or AIARE 2.
Sign up for AIARE 1 with Colorado Mountain School
Before you head out, visit Colorado Avalanche Information Center (or avalanche.org to find your local center) to get the forecast. You'll want to understand the types of avalanches most likely to occur the day you go out, where they are most likely to occur, and how to avoid them. Make a plan with your companions based on skill, experience, terrain, and the forecast.
Once travelling in the snow, evaluate if the conditions on the ground match the forecast. Note wind, snowfall, and temperature. Check for signs of recent avalanche activity, wind deposits, or cracks in the snow. Be aware of not only the slope you are on, but adjacent slopes and areas above you.
Cross or ride suspect slopes one at a time, and do not stop in or beneath avalanche terrain. Speak up when you have concerns and listen to your partners when they share their observations as well.
While the dangers of the mountains deserve a healthy amount of respect, it is absolutely possible to enjoy snowy terrain safely. Just make sure to Know Before You Go!
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]]>While very popular in Norway, in the U.S. Nordic ski touring tends to conjure images of 80-year-old grandparents in Minnesota. But, if you give it a try, you might just fall in love. Nordic ski touring is attractive for many reasons. Among them are ease, cost, and scenery. This style can be adapted to skiers of all levels, abilities and fitness, and while a brand new alpine touring (AT) package can cost upwards of $2,000, a Nordic ski touring set-up requires about a quarter of that investment.
Going on a Nordic ski tour is kind of like going for a nice long hike. Things move a little mellower. You take breaks, drink some spiked hot cocoa while gnawing on a chunk of German chocolate and soak in the sun, snow and winter glory. Spandex is nowhere to be found, but a classy-looking sweater that brings out your baby-blues on a ski date is the norm. Nobody is stressing over first tracks, and it can be as hardcore as you want to make it. You can ski across Antarctica, race in the Norwegian wilderness or ski a mile to a nice spot in the woods for a picnic.
Here are 8 tips to make your adventure into the world of Nordic skiing a success:
1. It’s All in the Boot
Nordic boots are much more rudimentary than alpine boots, so it can take some take to find the right fit. As a rule of thumb, you don’t want too much motion in your heel (blisters), good toe room (warmth) and decent stability in the cuff with good flex in the sole so you can cover some ground. I like leather, but some folks swear by the synthetic. It all works, but the boot has to match your foot. This is the single most important piece of gear in Nordic ski touring.
Book a Bootfitting Appointment at Neptune
2. 3-pin or NNN Bindings
If you go shopping for Nordic gear, you’ll quickly come to the big binding decision. NNN BC works great, and there is a reason it dominates the market; it probably tours a little better than 3-pin. That said, most polar explorers use a 3-pin system, mainly because you can do chores like set up camp and go pee a little easier, and because they ice up less. Personally, I like 3-pin better, but that’s just because the boots fit my feet better. Regardless, you’ll be fine.
3. Socks, Socks, Socks
Save your day, and find a good sock system. Those razor thin socks used by downhill skiers? Your heel will likely look like burger meat after a five-mile ski. Go thicker, like a good hiking sock. Thicker socks are warmer and provide cushioning. Personally, I use a liner sock and a thick wool sock. My mentor, Gary Neptune, who got me into the sport wears two thick wool socks, and he never has a problem. Be sure to size your boots accordingly.
4. Don’t be Afraid of Wax
Nordic ski waxing has a perception of complexity and mystery, kind of like a James Bond girl. And on a World Cup racing level, that’s deserved. But this is Nordic ski touring for chrissake. You basically need three, maybe four types of kick wax and cork. Waxless skis are great in warmer conditions and wet climates like New England and the Pacific Northwest. But if you are fortunate enough to live in a place where cold temperatures are the norm, wax works better.
5. Get the Right Ski
For most folks, a ski with metal edges will provide better stopping power and be more durable. The only exception is if you ski with a dog…it’s no fun cutting your furry friend’s paws with your edges. Don’t get too wide or short a ski. Tip width should be between 65 and 85 mm. Anything wider than that and you lose efficiency moving forward. Anything narrower, and breaking trail becomes torturous. Have an expert shop help find the right ski for you, because chances are, you’ll be using it for the next two decades.6. Learn at a Nordic Center
Walking on skis doesn’t really highlight skiing’s true beauty, so it takes a bit of practice to learn technique. If you’ve never cross-country skied, head to your local Nordic center and take a lesson in classic style cross country skiing (not to be confused with skate skiing). One day should easily do the trick. You’ll learn cool tricks like kick-and-glide and herringbone that will make your first day Nordic touring a lot more enjoyable.
7. Please Your Palate
This is where life gets good. Nordic ski touring is not a sport of power drinks, gelatinous foods and space-aged packets that taste like crap. Nor is it the overpriced world of ski area cafeteria hamburgers and mystery meats. In Nordic ski touring, taste buds are indulged. Think good cheeses, meat and chocolate. Style points are awarded if such delicacies come from France, Italy or Germany. A flask is a worthy investment - a little sip of something strong with friends can warm the soul and jolly the trail. Hot drinks and soups make you a superstar.
8. Pick the Right Day
Like any sport, Nordic skiing has good conditions and bad conditions. Too often folks pick a bad day for their first go. It’s kind of like a first-time surfer showing up at the Pipeline in Oahu. Bad things happen. First off, make sure it’s cold. Don’t even fuss around for the first time if it’s above freezing, especially if you are using wax. Ten to 25 degrees is optimal. A couple inches of snow a night or two before softens things up and makes it more fun.
My wife and I fell in love on a Nordic ski tour, no doubt aided by cold woods, a perfect little bridge over a stream and the exhilaration of being in a cold place and doing something pure and real. Go into nordic ski touring with an open mind, let go a little bit and just enjoy being out there. You never know what can happen…
So, you need to buy a hiking shoe. With seemingly endless options and a variety of special features, how do you pick?
When shopping, maybe you tend to rely on friends' recommendations or go for your favorite color. But with hiking shoes, you want to put those factors aside and instead find the shoe that will help you accomplish your objectives and still have happy feet at the end of the day.
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Tim | Floor Manager | @timfrommaine
Tim is a climber, trail runner, snowboarder and mountaineer living in Colorado since 2008.
So, you need to buy a hiking shoe. With seemingly endless options and a variety of special features, how do you pick?
When shopping, maybe you tend to rely on friends' recommendations or go for your favorite color. But with hiking shoes, you want to put those factors aside and instead find the shoe that will help you accomplish your objectives and still have happy feet at the end of the day.
Our staff are outdoor junkies who use their expertise to help you find exactly the right shoe for you. They take into consideration everything from what you hike in now, to how strong your feet and ankles are, to the size and shape of your feet.
But, if you're just starting your research, or you can't visit the store, we created this handy guide to help you in your journey toward finding the perfect pair.
Here's what you'll need to consider:
Now, that you've considered how and where you want to hike, you can narrow down what type of hiking shoe will be the most comfortable.
Best for: day hikes on packed trails
Hiking shoes are lightweight and breathable, which makes them great for shorter jaunts on well-maintained trails, especially if you're just carrying a small day pack (think water and snacks). They are less stiff, which generally makes them comfortable out of the box, without needing a break-in period.
The low profile is great for comfort and breathability, but you'll want to stick to those packed trails or build up ankle strength before hitting more rugged terrain.
Staff Picks:
La Sportiva Ultra Raptor (Women's)
Why we love it: The Ultra Raptor has awesome traction for a variety of trails without being too heavy. It's stiffer than a trail running shoe for support, but lighter than most mid-hikers.
La Sportiva Trail Ridge Low (Men's and Women's)
Why we love them: The mesh panels make these low-cut hikers super breathable for warmer climates.
Best for: backpacking; stability on rugged trails or for carrying heavier packs
If you plan to hike longer distances or even multiple days, carry a heavier pack, or you just want more support, a hiking boot is a great choice. Hiking boots usually have a wider, stiffer sole, which provides stability and prevents rolling an ankle. A stiffer sole also offers more comfort for longer days. The taller ankle cuff protects your from rocks and low branches, so you can venture out onto wilder terrain.
Staff Picks:
Oboz Bridger Mid Bdry (Men's and Women's)
Best for: Scrambling and technical trails
If you plan to do more technical hiking like crossing talus fields or scrambling up high peaks, you'll want a shoe that has good traction on rock. Approach shoes are sort of a hybrid between trail runners and climbing shoes. They feature sticky rubber, usually on both the sole and toe box.
Staff Picks:
La Sportiva TX3
Why we love it: The TX3 is comfortable, lightweight, and breathable with sticky climbing rubber on the sole, as well as the toe, for easy scrambling in mountain terrain.
Arc'teryx Aerios FI Mid GTX
Why we love it: This shoe combines features across categories. It's as lightweight and breathable as a trail runner, has the waterproofing and ankle protection of a mid-top, and the sticky rubber of an approach shoe.
Mountain boots are designed to keep you warm and dry in the alpine environment. They have a high cuff or ankle gaiter for protection from debris, a stiff sole for long days travelling on rock, and are made to be compatible with crampons for travelling across snow and ice. While these shoes are great for epic winter summits, mountain boots are much to heavy, stiff, and hot for shorter hikes in warm climates.
Staff Picks:
Scarpa Phantom Tech
Why we love it: The sole has enough rocker to make it more comfortable than other stiff mountaineering boots, and the waterproof gaiter keeps out ice and snow. Plus, it's compatible with fully automatic crampons.
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Most of us have had to adapt our climbing routines this year, whether it was taking a break, building a home gym or training space, or choosing climbing areas based on the likelihood of avoiding crowds.
Now, as gyms and crags reopen, we want to help you to stay motivated and injury free as you get back to the wall.
Climbing is a stressful activity for the body. It's important to raise your heart rate, add in some mobility exercises, and start easy. Many climbing training programs recommend at least 20 minutes of easy climbing before moving on to more challenging workouts like limit bouldering or hangboarding.
We've heard from many climbers that the forced rest of quarantine allowed them to find relief from pain and injuries. However, before you jump right back in, it's important to build strength around those joints that are most susceptible to injury.
Fingers - start on grades even below your previous warm ups
Wrists - embed your fist in a bucket of rice, rotate your fist in both directions
Knees - work on pistol squats
Elbows - practice elbows-back pushups and dips to counter the pulling actions of climbing
Shoulders - Prone I's, Y's, and T's are a simple, effective exercise you can do to strengthen the lower trapezius muscle and prevent front-loading the in the shoulders
Before you attempt limit bouldering or project climbing, spend some time working on movement drills and technique. Practice your backsteps, flags, drop knees, etc so it will be easier to find a state of flow mid-route.
If you've been cooped up for a while, you might be tempted to want to climb until you drop. Don't underestimate the power of rest - on the route, between climbs, and between sessions. While you rest, try focusing on deep, controlled breathing or visualize moves on a climb.
Few things kill morale faster than holding yourself to expectations of climbing at your previous level. Be patient with yourself and remember to climb for fun. In an article for Trainingbeta.com, pro climber Emily Harrington recommends reminding yourself of why you love climbing before you focus on the specifics of training. She writes, "Why not go climb all the classic 5.9s you’ve never bothered with before? Approach each route with a beginner’s mindset, enjoy the simplicity of just climbing; that is why you do it after all, right?"
We want to know - how is your climbing training going this summer? What are your favorite tips to come back stronger than ever?
Don't forget to check out our Training and Recovery tools in the shop.
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